The intersection of art and nature has always been my biggest draw to herbalism. Throughout history, the roots of herbalism and art have long been intertwined by the rich tradition of botanical illustration and self-expression. Just as no two artists would illustrate a figure drawing in the same way, it’s unlikely you’ll find two herbalists whose home apothecaries display identical herbs—and that right there is the beauty of creativity!
When we take a step further and weave herbalism together with both art and science, even more room for artistic experimentation blurs the lines between intuition, expression, and observation. In turn, merging these creative outlets can forge some of the most meaningful and thought-provoking reflections of the natural world. Little else encapsulates these principles more literally than anthotype printing: an art technique that uses natural pigments and the sun’s imprint to create truly unique depictions of plants.
To the naked eye, anthotype printing appears to be magic, but the science behind it has a lot more to do with light exposure than waving a magic wand. Anthotype printing dates back to the 19th century and was actually one of the earliest forms of photography. The technique is made by applying photosensitive pigments from natural sources, such as plants or berries, to an absorbent canvas, then objects or “positives” are laid onto the canvas and placed under direct sunlight to let the UV rays do the rest of the work. Once the photosensitive pigments are exposed to the sun, the uncovered areas will become lighter, while the covered areas will remain dark, revealing a unique silhouette of the shifting relationship between light and pigment.
Anthotypes and cyanotypes emerged around the same time in history, but they share some key differences. Anthotypes use pigments sourced from plants and the natural light from the sun, while cyanotypes use a bit more chemistry and UV exposure to create their signature deep Prussian blue prints. Think of cyanotypes as the high-contrast, bold, and moody sibling to anthotypes; the softer, more granola sibling with an affinity for the sun.
While this blog is focused on anthotypes, you can learn more about the art of cyanotypes on our recent podcast episode on Herbal Radio here: Flora’s Daughters | Featuring Julia Orquera Bianco & Meghan Henshaw
One of the main reasons herbalism and anthotypes go so hand-in-hand is pretty simple: herbalists love working with plants in all their weird and whacky forms! While making tinctures and salves are invaluable ways to build relationships with plants, anthotypes open up a whole new door to explore the personality of plants in a completely different way. Better yet, many of the same botanicals found in an everyday herbalist’s home apothecary can be transformed into one-of-a-kind pieces of botanical art.
Turmeric is a popular choice in anthotype printing due to the plant’s rich concentration curcumin: the compound responsible for the plant’s vibrant yellow hue and myriad wellness benefits. Curcumin is photosensitizing, which in simple terms means its pigments will degrade when exposed to light. If you’ve ever stained a tea towel with turmeric and noticed how the permanent-appearing stain disappears rather quickly, that’s not just the washing machine at work—that’s curcumin in action!
Anthotypes allow us the opportunity to connect and explore herbalism in ways beyond how plants interact with our bodies. Rather than focusing solely on their medicinal actions, we are able to notice how they stain, how they interact with sunlight, and how their pigments shift over time. Anthotype prints are not just pieces of art, but another pathway to deepen our connection with plants and celebrate all the beauty they have to offer.
Supplies
Ingredients
Directions
Pro Tips
If your prints don't turn out exactly how you'd like the first go around, don't give up just yet! All creative mediums have their learning curves, so feel free to experiment with longer/shorter exposure times, dye concentration, and negatives of choice.
Watercolor paper is ideal for this project, but any fibrous paper you have on hand will do just fine.
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