In my late teens, I was bitten by a travel bug from which I’ve yet to fully recover. I spent my young adulthood on-the-move, visiting and living in a variety of settings both urban and rural, across the U.S. and abroad. Along the way, I learned, grew—and ate! I found that delving into different cuisines offered an accessible, informative, and visceral opening through which to explore new cultures in general. No place I’ve ever lived has provided more culinary cultural windows than the intensely diverse city of Chicago, where, after a long ride north on the CTA Red Line, I first encountered phở. After just a few noodly slurps of this fabulous dish, I found myself flushed, near tears, and tingling from head to toe—in short, I was in love.
Phở is a traditional Vietnamese broth soup with roots stretching back to at least the late 18th century. In many ways, it’s a deceptive dish, presenting a plain front that belies its incredible depth. While recipes vary by family and region, most share a few basic commonalities. Generally, when served phở, you’ll receive a large bowl of golden broth containing some rice noodles and a few basic, lightly cooked vegetables (carrots, mushrooms, and broccoli are common); a caddy of oils and spices in dry and/or paste form; and an ample tray of fresh toppings which often include fresh cilantro, basil, bean sprouts, hot pepper slices, and lime wedges. While the sides are colorful (and highly recommended!), the power and essence of phở comes from its seemingly most humble element, the broth.
Many historians believe that this soup’s name originally came from the French term pot au feu, or “pot of fire”, a colonial appellation reflecting the many hours of simmering required to create this magical broth. A great phở broth requires time. This is especially true for the traditional recipe, which uses not only a broad and cosmopolitan spice profile, but also roasted beef bones that are baked, steeped, and simmered for days to extract their maximum nutrition (I was not yet a vegetarian when I discovered phở, so I first experienced it in its traditional form). Herein lies the secret behind another of phở‘s deceptions: while the bulk of the dish is simply liquid, it is incredibly satisfying and unexpectedly filling, containing enough vitamins and minerals to fill virtually every nutritional niche in your body. Add to that its dizzying palette of flavors that entertain your taste buds to the point of near exhaustion, and you end up with a meal that isn’t simply fuel, but an experience.
When I became a vegetarian, I sought out meat-free versions of phở, but I found most sadly lacking in depth and flavor. I could hardly blame the Vietnamese chefs who offered these options; after all, most had been honing their traditional broth recipes for generations, and their meat-free versions were simply a gracious attempt to cater to my non-culturally-traditional dietary preferences. Besides, the dish was virtually built around bone broth, so maybe creating a comparable result with only plants just wasn’t possible? Still, I wasn’t ready to give up the joys of my early phở experiences, so I decided to try my own hand at engineering a vegan version that could measure up.
Many trials later, I ended up with a vegan recipe that I think does a very respectable job of representing the magic, depth, and satisfaction factor of traditional phở. I started with a typical phở spice simmering blend, which I added to vegetables slow-cooked in a hearty helping of oil for some fatty richness. I also incorporated earthy shiitake and maitake mushrooms and astragalus, simmered for hours, to fill in some of the umami normally provided by the beef bones; I then added the broth-infused mushrooms back into the final broth as a toothsome and flavorful substitute for the thin meat slices that often top traditional phở. Finally, I added kombu flakes to provide the salty sea flavor usually contributed by fish sauce. As with the original, the key to this recipe is patience—the more time you give this broth to assimilate and concentrate, the more you’ll reap the rewards in your final bowl. Plus, your house will smell AMAZING for days!
Makes about 4 meal-sized servings.
Active Time: 25 minutes
Ingredients
Directions
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